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Green_Clean_Service
If you would rather have a home that is freshly cleaned with beneficial
natural ingredients rather than something that exudes the harms
of a chemical factory, you've found me out. I do whole house cleaning/aromatherapy
with my own brands customized to your needs. Chemical Free Green
Clean Plus Aromatherapy for a Healthier Environment!
Expertise:
Whole House Chemical Free Cleaning,
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Dusting, Polishing,
Washing:
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Bedrooms,
Living Rooms,
Dens,
Laundry Rooms,
DIning Rooms,
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Windows,
Tubs,
Sinks,
Appliances,
and more.
I can also help with your cleaning for moving.
General residential house cleaning services with
Weekly
Biweekly
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And also provide
Estate cleaning, maintenance, and upkeep services. Learn about our
Customized Programs
Additional Services
Wall washing
Window cleaning including cleaning of window tracks and/or screens
Washing of baseboards & edging of carpets
Grout cleaning
Washing of light fixture coverings
Cleaning and organization of kitchen or bathroom cabinets
Vacuuming of upholstery or draperies
Washing cabinet facings
Carpet and upholstery spot cleaning
Cleaning refrigerator and oven interiors (Ask for details)
Special Offers: Free 1 hour consultation upon hiring Valued at up
to $25 (No cash value) One time promotion Expires 12/31/2008. Recieve
a $10 gift card for future cleaning for first time customers only.
One time promotion ends 12/31/2008.
Contact me for an estimate or visit jilljjam@yahoo.com or call
320-492-1972
I live and work in Central Minnesota.
I love working in Central Minnesota because it's home. I would describe
my business as family owned and operated. The reason I choose my
professions are due to natural fit: I enjoy work, believe it!
toxic-big-grocer-food
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[logo] US EPA
Technology Transfer Network
Air Toxics Web Site
Contact Us Search: All EPA This Area
* You are here: EPA Home
* Air & Radiation
* TTN Web - Technology Transfer Network
* Air Toxics Web site
* Ethylene Oxide
Ethylene Oxide
75-21-8
Hazard Summary-Created in April 1992; Revised in January 2000
The major use for ethylene oxide is as a chemical intermediate
in industry. The acute (short-term) effects of ethylene oxide in
humans consist mainly of central nervous system (CNS) depression
and irritation of the eyes and mucous membranes. Chronic (long-term)
exposure to ethylene oxide in humans can cause irritation of the
eyes, skin, and mucous membranes, and problems in the functioning
of the brain and nerves. Some human cancer data show an increase
in the incidence of leukemia, stomach cancer, cancer of the pancreas,
and Hodgkin's disease in workers exposed to ethylene oxide. However
these data are considered to be limited and inconclusive due to
uncertainties in the studies. EPA has classified ethylene oxide
as a Group B1, probable human carcinogen.
Please Note: The main source of information for this fact sheet
is the Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry's (ATSDR's)
Toxicological Profile for Ethylene Oxide. Other secondary sources
include the Hazardous Substances Data Bank (HSDB), a database of
summaries of peer-reviewed literature, and the Registry of Toxic
Effects of Chemical Substances (RTECS), a database of toxic effects
that are not peer reviewed.
Uses
* Ethylene oxide is used mainly as a chemical intermediate in the
manufacture of textiles, detergents, polyurethane foam, antifreeze,
solvents, medicinals, adhesives, and other products. (1)
* Relatively small amounts of ethylene oxide are used as a fumigant,
a sterilant for food (spices) and cosmetics, and in hospital sterilization
of surgical equipment and plastic devices that cannot be sterilized
by steam. (1)
Sources and Potential Exposure
* Sources of ethylene oxide emissions into the air include uncontrolled
emissions or venting with other gases in industrial settings. (1)
* Other sources of ethylene oxide air emissions include automobile
exhaust and its release from commodity-fumigated materials, as well
as its use as a sterilizer of medical equipment. (1)
* The general population may be exposed to ethylene oxide through
breathing contaminated air or from smoking tobacco or being in the
proximity to someone who is smoking. Certain occupational groups
(e.g., workers in ethylene oxide manufacture or processing plants,
sterilization technicians, and workers involved in fumigation) may
be exposed in the workplace. (1)
Assessing Personal Exposure
* There are tests currently available to determine personal exposure
to ethylene oxide, such as the determination of ethylene oxide in
the blood or the amount breathed out of the lungs. (1)
Health Hazard Information
Acute Effects:
* Acute inhalation exposure of workers to high levels of ethylene
oxide has resulted in nausea, vomiting, neurological disorders,
bronchitis, pulmonary edema, and emphysema at high concentrations.
(1,2)
* Dermal or ocular contact with solutions of ethylene oxide has
caused irritation of the eyes and skin in humans. (1,2)
* Tests involving acute exposure of animals has shown ethylene oxide
to have high acute toxicity from oral and inhalation exposures.
(3)
Chronic Effects (Noncancer):
* Major effects observed in workers exposed to ethylene oxide at
low levels for several years are irritation of the eyes, skin, and
mucous membranes and problems in the functioning of the brain and
nerves. (1,2)
* There is evidence suggesting that long-term exposure to high levels
of ethylene oxide, at a level of 700 parts per million (ppm), can
result in cataracts in humans. (2)
* EPA has not established a Reference Dose (RfD) or a Reference
Concentration (RfC) for ethylene oxide.
* The California Environmental Protection Agency (CalEPA) has established
a chronic reference exposure level of 0.005 milligrams per cubic
meter (mg/m3) for ethylene oxide based on hematological effects
in humans. The CalEPA reference exposure level is a concentration
at or below which adverse health effects are not likely to occur.
It is not a direct estimator of risk, but rather a reference point
to gauge the potential effects. At lifetime exposures increasingly
greater than the reference exposure level, the potential for adverse
health effects increases. (4)
* ATSDR has an established an intermediate inhalation minimal risk
level (MRL) of 0.2 mg/m3 (0.09 ppm) based on respiratory effects
in humans. The MRL is an estimate of the daily human exposure to
a hazardous substance that is likely to be without appreciable risk
of adverse noncancer health effects over a specified duration of
exposure. (1)
Reproductive/Developmental Effects:
* Some evidence exists indicating that inhalation exposure to ethylene
oxide can cause an increased rate of miscarriages in female workers.
These effects could be seen from acute, as well as chronic, exposure.
(1,2)
* Various adverse reproductive effects have been noted in inhalation
exposure studies of animals including decreased number of implantation
sites, decreased testicular weights and sperm concentration, and
testicular degeneration. (1,2)
Cancer Risk:
* Human occupational studies have shown elevated cases of leukemia,
stomach and pancreatic cancer, and Hodgkin's disease in workers
exposed to ethylene oxide by inhalation. However, the data are considered
to be limited and inconclusive due to the small number of individuals
studied and uncertainties about the exposure levels. (1,2)
* Animal studies have shown lung, gland, and uterine tumors caused
by inhalation exposure to ethylene oxide. (1,2)
* EPA considers ethylene oxide to be a probable human carcinogen
and has ranked it in EPA's Group B1. This classification has had
some form of Agency review, but does not appear on IRIS. (5)
* EPA uses mathematical models, based on human and animal studies,
to estimate the probability of a person developing cancer from breathing
air containing a specified concentration of a chemical. EPA has
calculated a provisional inhalation unit cancer risk estimate of
1.0 × 10-4 (µg/m3)-1 . A provisional value is one that
has not received Agency-wide review. (5)
* EPA has calculated a provisional oral cancer slope factor of 1.0
(mg/kg/d)-1. (5)
Physical Properties
* Ethylene oxide is a colorless gas with a sweet odor. (1,6)
* The chemical formula for ethylene oxide is C2H4O and the molecular
weight is 44.1 g/mol. (6)
* The vapor pressure for ethylene oxide is 1,095 mm Hg at 20 °C,
and it has an octanol/water partition coefficient (log Kow) of -0.30.
(6)
* Ethylene oxide is very soluble in water and is flammable. (1)
* Ethylene oxide has an odor threshold of 430 ppm. (7)
* Ethylene oxide has an estimated half-life in air ranging from
69 to 149 days, while its half-life in water is about 50 years.
(1).
Conversion Factors:
To convert concentrations in air (at 25°C) from ppm to mg/m3:
mg/m3 = (ppm) × (molecular weight of the compound)/(24.45).
For ethylene oxide: 1 ppm = 1.8 mg/m3. To convert concentrations
in air from µg/m3 to mg/m3: mg/m3 = (µg/m3) ×
(1 mg/1,000 µg).
Health Data from Inhalation Exposure
ACGIH TLV--American Conference of Governmental and Industrial Hygienists'
threshold limit value expressed as a time-weighted average; the
concentration of a substance to which most workers can be exposed
without adverse effects.
AIHA ERPG--American Industrial Hygiene Association's emergency response
planning guidelines. ERPG 1 is the maximum airborne concentration
below which it is believed nearly all individuals could be exposed
up to one hour without experiencing other than mild transient adverse
health effects or perceiving a clearly defined objectionable odor;
ERPG 2 is the maximum airborne concentration below which it is believed
nearly all individuals could be exposed up to one hour without experiencing
or developing irreversible or other serious health effects that
could impair their abilities to take protective action.
LC50 (Lethal Concentration50)--A calculated concentration of a chemical
in air to which exposure for a specific length of time is expected
to cause death in 50% of a defined experimental animal population.
NIOSH IDLH -- National Institute of Occupational Safety and Health's
immediately dangerous to life or health concentration; NIOSH recommended
exposure limit to ensure that a worker can escape from an exposure
condition that is likely to cause death or immediate or delayed
permanent adverse health effects or prevent escape from the environment.
NIOSH REL--NIOSH's recommended exposure limit; NIOSH-recommended
exposure limit for an 8- or 10-h time-weighted-average exposure
and/or ceiling.
OSHA PEL--Occupational Safety and Health Administration's permissible
exposure limit expressed as a time-weighted average; the concentration
of a substance to which most workers can be exposed without adverse
effect averaged over a normal 8-h workday or a 40-h workweek.
The health and regulatory values cited in this factsheet were obtained
in December 1999.
aHealth numbers are toxicological numbers from animal testing or
risk assessment values developed by EPA.
bRegulatory numbers are values that have been incorporated in Government
regulations, while advisory numbers are nonregulatory values provided
by the Government or other groups as advice. OSHA numbers are regulatory,
whereas NIOSH, ACGIH, and AIHA numbers are advisory.
cThe LOAEL is from the critical study used as the basis for the
CalEPA chronic reference exposure level.
References
1. Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry (ATSDR). Toxicological
Profile for Ethylene Oxide. U.S. Public Health Service, U.S. Department
of Health and Human Services, Atlanta, GA. 1990.
2. U.S. Department of Health and Human Services. Hazardous Substances
Data Bank (HSDB, online database). National Toxicology Information
Program, National Library of Medicine, Bethesda, MD. 1993.
3. U.S. Department of Health and Human Services. Registry of Toxic
Effects of Chemical Substances (RTECS, online database). National
Toxicology Information Program, National Library of Medicine, Bethesda,
MD. 1993.
4. California Environmental Protection Agency (CalEPA). Technical
Support Document for the Determination of Noncancer Chronic Reference
Exposure Levels. Draft for Public Comment. Office of Environmental
Health Hazard Assessment, Berkeley, CA. 1997.
5. U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Health Effects Assessment
Summary Tables. FY 1997 Update. National Center for Environmental
Assessment, Office of Research and Development, Washington, DC.
1997.
6. The Merck Index. An Encyclopedia of Chemicals, Drugs, and Biologicals.
11th ed. Ed. S. Budavari. Merck and Co. Inc., Rahway, NJ. 1989.
7. J.E. Amoore and E. Hautala. Odor as an aid to chemical safety:
Odor thresholds compared with threshold limit values and volatilities
for 214 industrial chemicals in air and water dilution. Journal
of Applied Toxicology, 3(6):272-290. 1983
8. American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygienists (ACGIH).
1999 TLVs and BEIs. Threshold Limit Values for Chemical Substances
and Physical Agents, Biological Exposure Indices. Cincinnati, OH.
1999.
9. Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA). Occupational
Safety and Health Standards, Toxic and Hazardous Substances. Code
of Federal Regulations. 29 CFR 1910.1000. 1998.
10. National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH).
Pocket Guide to Chemical Hazards. U.S. Department of Health and
Human Services, Public Health Service, Centers for Disease Control
and Prevention. Cincinnati, OH. 1997.
11. American Industrial Hygiene Association (AIHA). The AIHA 1998
Emergency Response Planning Guidelines and Workplace Exposure Level
Guides Handbook. 1998.
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Last updated on Tuesday, November 6th, 2007.
http://www.epa.gov/ttn/atw/hlthef/ethylene.html
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Heirloom Seeds
On my local harvest site at www.localharvest.org/store/M9122 or
if you'd like to buy direct from me, contact me at through my Local
Harvest pages (I also personally take paypal payments and checks
that are good for other items) I have available through Local Harvest
an heirloom variety packs of seeds saved from our favorites available
to buy for 25.00 US dollars plus shipping. A mix of our favorites
heirlooms: 2 kinds of green beans dependent on supply, 2 kinds of
melons (Italian Honeydew and Sakata Sweet), 2 kinds of squash (Golden
Hubbard and Toonas Makino), 1 kind of eggplant (Rosa Bianca), 1
kind of corn dependent on supply, 1 kind of parsnips (hollow crown),
1 kind of sweet peppers (mini mulicolor), 2 kinds of hot peppers
(hot jalepeno and cayenne), & 1 kind of chives (onion). A 20
ft row's worth of each vegetable ie: 20 ft of beans plus 20 ft of
parsnips plus 20 ft of corn, etc..... All produce well in Minnesota
and are easy to maintain and grow.
I choose plants based on taste and hardiness rather than size and
shelf life. This means the seeds you get will not produce bland
grocery store taste, they are better, much better. Raised in Central
Minnesota where we get some of "the worst of it" weatherwise,
these are genetically and naturally some of nature's finest. The
collection I offer includes: green beans, melons, squash, eggplant,
corn, parsnips, sweet peppers, hot peppers, peas, & chives.
In general my tips for a good garden include using organic practices
whenever possible. Ammend poor soils several months ahead with manure
and/or compost and/or specific minerals needed by you particular
soil. It just makes sense to do soil tests in several areas of your
garden to assure the plants a good start. Know your soil, peat and
clay soils will likely be more absorbent than the sandy soils we
have here, and knowing this along with weather conditions and signs
your plants give you will assist in keeping all watered amply. We
go with a minimum of 1 inch of water per week on entire garden,
but when it's hotter or windier we bump that up to 1 1/2 inches.
If you pay attention to your plants you will notice you have some
"indicator plants" that will tell you they are thirsty
by showing you droopy leaves. If a plant looks yellow or some color
it should not, chances are it has a mineral deficiency, and a side
dressing of aged compost or manure or some manure tea should perk
it up. Some plants are heavy feeders, meaning they like a good gulp
of manure tea or such every month. Another practice I like is companion
planting: onions, garlic, marigolds make good natural pest repellent.
Again, your plant will tell you it has bugs if you see rolled up
spotted or chew holes. There is a plethora of natural recipes available
for pests online too, such as pepper or garlic spray. so I encourage
again to visit gardening sites and arm yourself. A good place to
get more specific info about your area and soil type is at your
County Extention Agent. Visit a nearby Farmer and see if they have
any ideas on where to get aged manure, start your own compost pile,
There are tons of tools & ideas on how to do all this online.
I recommend a visit to MotherEarthNews.com and Dave'sGarden forums.
Till up the soil just before any planting. My rule of thumb is to
plant big seeds like beans 1/2 to 1 inch deep, medium size seeds
like tomato 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep, and small size seeds like ground
cherries 1/4 inch deep or less. Plant in straight rows to make future
tilling and picking easy. Make a garden plan on paper that includes
spacing of plants and rows, shaded or sunny spots, and seasonal
replanting info BEFORE your plunk all the seeds in the ground. Then
of course it is a whole nother discussion on saving seeds. I encourage
you to save these heirloom seeds from the plants you grow and share
them. Hybrids don't save well and I don't think they taste as good
or some don't do as well, but then I don't sell any hybrids. Note
that if you live somewhere like MN you have a short season and might
have to start some plants in flats indoors ahead of time, I indicate
my practice if that is the case with below seeds. Below are the
planting/raising instructions per specific plants:
green beans: plant 1/2 to 1 inch deep directly outside in Spring
when danger of frost has passed in fertile, well drained and newly
tilled soil in a double row with seeds 6 inches apart in full or
mostly sunny spot. At the start of season check your beans daily
at 5 to 6 am for any signs of cutworms (cutworms live a few inches
below the soil and will continually decapitate some plants if not
removed: dig up soil around pland wher you see chewing on stem and
find and destroy the buggers ) . We hill our bean plants once they
are about 6 inches tall and this helps improve nutrients ot plants
as well as is a stabilizing from winds. Just rake up soil from outside
the row and hill dirt aroud each plant up to their bottom leaves.
Once beans begin producing, pick every other day to get the tender
morsels. I love beans, they are the harbingers of a new spring,
and I think one of the coolest sights is those two arms popping
ot of the soil like they say YEA!!!! I"M HERE! You might want
to leave some pods on plant to get very old, gold, and dry (then
shell them and use them to plant from in the future) I do several
plantings of bean because they will produce for several weeks then
start to get shabby, but also they make a great green fertilizer
after they are done: simply till the old row into the ground and
plant something like beets there, and start another bean row where
the soil could use a little help.
peas, like beans in many ways, especially these too make a great
green manure, so be sure to plow them into soil when they are done
afer a few months. Plant in early Spring directly in garden when
danger of last frost has passed. Seeds for these can be set in much
closer, 3 inches apart, do a double or triple row with a trellis
in the middle. These like support too, but do not do as well when
hilled. Again, this produces several weeks before it gets exhasted,
and let a few pods get old, gold and dried so your future seeds,
and pick the young tender ones every other day. It seems the heat
stress can be too much for these in the hottest days of Summer,
so while I do several planting of peas per Summer, I give them the
hottest month off.
squash, I start these indoors 1 month before last possible frost
date, and use big pots full of fertile well drained soil mixed with
1/3 perlite (for good drainage. and lights on at 9 am and off at
9 pm. If you live in an area where you are lucky enough to have
a longer growing season, then by all means plant these directly
into garden (they do well near an edge where they have lots of room
to roam out onto a yard or in between corn) Part to full sun. Plant
in hills with 4 to 6 per hill and 4 inches apart. Hills need be
4 to 6 feet apart. The great big flowers will magically turn into
squash. If your vine roams too far out of reach, just gently pick
up the vine and put it back where it belongs. You will know the
produce is done when the leave closest to the squash dies and the
stem is drying out, these are Fall squash and will be done late
Fall if planted in Spring. These can be stored for many months in
a cool (50-60 degree) dark spot such as a cellar.
melons, these like squash, also like to be planted in hills that
are 4 to 6 seeds per hill, hills 2 feet apart, and seeds a few inches
apart, and will vine. I recommend putting the hills in a row under
a trellis so that the melons take up less space, but they can also
be left to roam as long as the fruits at ripening are off the ground
so as not the go bad (you could but boards or boxes or pots under
the melons to keep them off the ground).. Also like squash you will
know these are ripe when the leave closest to the melon dies and
the stem is getting dry. These will keep producing til frost. Save
seeds for future plantings.
chives, this is perenial and will come back like grass each year.
Plant seeds just below surface direct in garden after all danger
of frost has passed 1 inch apart in a place where you won't be tilling
it up. These are great for a container plant. It will look sort
of like grass when growing, and acts like it too: cut it of and
it sprouts new blades almost overnight! Some blades will produce
a purplish flower which, by the way, is great in salads, or let
the flower fully mature and turn old gold and dried and you will
see little black seeds you can plant for more chive patches. Now
is this amazing? To use thes I like fresh best, but one can also
dice these up and put in freezer where they will keep for many months.
parsnip, these also should be put in a place in your garden where
danger of being tilled over is not too great. Plant 1/4" deep
in fertile well drained soil after hottest part of Summer has passed
with plants 4 iches apart in a patch or wide row. Why? The best
parsnips cannot he had the first year of planting, one must wait
for some good things. These should be harvested VERY early the following
Spring: just as you see little green sprouts pop from the cold ground,
pull them out like carrotts, pull them all out, some might be so
big as to require a shovel to get the entire roots. If left in the
ground to develop bigger leaves, the roots will become bitter, so
the earlier you can get them in Spring, the better.
melons, eggplant, sweet peppers, hot peppers, in my neck of the
woods it is essential to start all of these indoors under lights
in a fertile and light starting medium. I start mine in March. To
transplant wait with all until you are 100 percent sure no more
frosts will come and the weather will be 60 or above consistently.
All of them a foot apart in single rows. For the melons you should
have trellises and keep the fruits off the ground once the come.
All will tolerate sun pretty well and need at least the minimum
water mentioned above per week, and give them a side dressing (1-2
inches from plant and a bout an inch deep) of manure or compost
to help come fruiting time.
Then&Now
Hi,
I thought you might know this one or at least appreciate the irony;
Guess who said these things, when, and where they were said....and
are there similarities of then and now?
---speeches begin---
Politician 1:
Leads and encourages a crowd to sing "God Bless America"
Musician 1:
Says:
It is a matter of fact most of the people who are taking a hard
line against us are firmly convinced that they are the last defenders
of civilization. I think they see themselves as the Roman Senate,
perched among the ruins man, defending it against the barbarian
hoards, the last stronghold of Mother, God, home, and apple pie,
and they're full of shit!
Politician 1:
As one who works in the field of government, I can tell you my life
is dedicated to the cause that I know you're all dedicated to, all
of you. I want this nation to be at peace, and it shall be. I want
the air to be clean, and it will be clean. I want the water to be
pure, and it will be. I want better education for all, every man,
woman and.....
Musician 1:
What are you doing?
Alabama, you've got the weight on your shoulders that's breaking
your back.
What's going on?
---end of speeches---
Have a great holiday
Jill
Nudes
I decided to it was enough. I draw and paint well, and see nakedness
as beauty I can capture with concentration and a few art materials.
RIght now I'm doing the classy looking era of 1930's 1940's colors
and styles, which I think lend to this form of art. Actually most
are semi-nude, as there is some draping of clothes, but that is
the mystery that appeals to the eye also. So if you are looking
for a nude portait, (of yourself, not of me silly) lemme know and
I can send you some samples and set up a plan. Your privacy guaranteed,
but I will check for over 18 id's. I do not have these nude or semi-
nudes pics on any sites because some people get real uptight about
that type of thing. Thenagain, I wound up doing gourd art instead
sometimes. The gourds are up to look at (or buy if you offer enough)
in my art album
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